Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
